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Chinese Wine Steps Down from the High Altar to Everyday Tables
来源:www.cnwinenews.com  2025-06-30 17:23 作者:

The recent 32nd Concours Mondial de Bruxelles concluded successfully in Yinchuan, drawing judges from across the globe. China Wine News observed a significant industry shift: over 90% of surveyed wineries are restructuring their portfolios, moving beyond a sole "premium" focus to introduce more affordable wines. This reflects a deeper transformation in China's wine market. As consumers become more rational, the industry is shifting from a frenetic phase chasing "premium pricing for renowned wineries" towards a pragmatic stage of "making wine accessible to more people." Judges noted this "downward penetration" strategy responds to complex consumer dynamics and represents a long-term plan to cultivate the mass market. As a French judge remarked, "A market truly matures when ordinary consumers regularly enjoy wine with meals."

 

Quality: The Uncompromised Foundation 

"The global wine industry hopes to see sustained growth, not decline, in China's consumption," stated Arménio Costa, International Executive Director of Amorim Cork Group, in an exclusive interview. He predicts rising consumption will be met primarily by domestically produced wines. Costa observed that while emerging wineries arise and others fade in challenging markets, consolidation favors the strong. Crucially, "during crises, low-quality products suffer most, while high-quality ones demonstrate resilience." He cited Xige Winery, whose commitment to quality ensured stable sales growth even amidst declining consumption. A new global trend, Costa noted, is reduced drinking frequency but a preference for higher quality and priced wines. Historically, superior quality ensures stable performance and brand premium, shielding it from cyclical downturns. Experts concur: quality is the anchor against storms and China's ticket to global competition.

 

Beyond Imitation: Defining a Chinese Identity 

Quentin Havaux, CEO of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, highlighted China's unique opportunity: "To stand out, China needs its signature grape variety. Marselan has emerged as China’s most representative variety and key to its international presence." While Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay perform well, Havaux noted they already have established regional identities. He praised China's dynamic wine regions and producers' dedication, stating quality now meets international standards. The critical need is promotion focused on convincing Chinese consumers of local wine's value – moving beyond Western frameworks to embrace "Chinese taste." This means wines with complex aromas and local palate appeal that pair with Chinese cuisine, integrating wine into daily life through "food-wine pairing." Cheng Qian, owner of Huahao Winery, echoed this, stressing the need for differentiation, quality commitment, and innovation. "Ningxia's wine industry," he asserted, "must pursue excellence to compete globally."

 

The Domestic Springboard & Reconnecting with Consumers 

Costa emphasized leveraging China's advantageous sales environment and logistics, using the domestic market as a launchpad for global expansion. Reconnecting with consumers is vital for activating domestic demand. Yang Min, Director of the Wine Trade & Education Promotion Center at CCPIT, pinpointed industry pain points: sluggish mid-to-low-end markets due to underwhelming consumption and misplaced positioning – overemphasizing wine's alcohol function where baijiu dominates. "We must refocus on wine's core strengths: enhancing life quality through diverse flavors and experiences," Yang stated, acknowledging this requires accessible yet sophisticated consumer education. She anticipates market recovery aligning with international trends. Li Ruyi, a Ningxia University professor, highlighted a disconnect between producers and consumers, who often misreport preferences (e.g., claiming sweetness preference but enjoying dry wines). "Engaging youth deeply in production and fostering face-to-face communication are key," Li urged. Xiban Winery exemplifies this shift, actively improving service, lowering prices, and adapting products to demand for ready-to-drink, aesthetically packaged, smooth wines, while expanding into e-commerce and overseas markets. Lily, owner of Changyu Pioneer Wine, stressed building a clear price structure with a complete portfolio from entry-level to premium. Exploring new consumption scenarios and integrating wine into lifestyles are crucial. These strategies show an industry rebuilding consumer connections through down-to-earth approaches, encouraging enjoyment over obligation.

 

The Path Forward: Rooted in Quality, Terroir, and Consumers 

While challenges remain – low per capita consumption and intense global competition – the industry consensus is clear: alleviating anxiety requires not short-term price cuts, but building a triad of "quality as the root, local identity as the soul, and consumers as the foundation." Whether advocating for "excellence," "distinctiveness," or prioritizing "domestic consumer acceptance" as the bedrock for international success, the path points firmly towards deepening roots in China. Winning the loyalty of Chinese palates through unique terroir expression is the most solid springboard for Chinese wine onto the world stage. Though not easy, this return to essence is the singular path to carving a "Chinese imprint" on the global wine map.


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